Cuzco -- © Travel Notes
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Built on
Inca foundations, Cuzco is one of South America's colonial gems. It is still the cultural centre of the Quechua people, proved by the
tens of thousands who make the annual pilgrimage to the city of legend to see the ruins,
listen to the living music, and take part in the centuries old tradition of trading in the
streets. |
Colourful
Sights:
While many colonial towns and cities have
become neglected, Cuzco continues to wear her white of colonia in a fresh manner. The
disappearance of her Inca King and Spanish Lords have not driven her to neglect her bridal
gown like the Victorian Miss Havisham in Dickens. Cuzco expects her visitors, and the old
peak, Machu Picchu, helps to attract them.
When you visit Cuzco, you will be enchanted by
her charm: the white-washed walls, blue wooden doors and window-shutters, elaborately
carved wooden balconies, overhanging eaves, earth-coloured roof tiles, and stone cobbled
streets. And of course the art and monuments that stand as a testimony to the Catholic
faith; a city declared by UNESCO as part of the world's cultural heritage.
The city breathes with colourfully clothed
campesinos selling everything from vegetables to weavings, but the Indian spinning wool or
standing next to her llama on Plaza d'Armas is not a God sent coincidence for the happy
snapper. They consider it a job to dress up and pose for the tourists and expect a small
fee in return.
With sonar-like hearing and eyes in the back
of their heads, they can pick out a shutter click across the road, and search for the
little black image recorders like herons diving from the sky for a fish. If paying for a
picture seems too much, then the offender will be chased from the square with an
outstretched hand.
Andean Sound:
There is a certain pride in the traditional
Andean sound. A sound that has held out against the influences from Spain, Africa, and
modern electronics. Some of the music is positively lively, but although there is a
temptation to dance to the huanyo rhythm, the melody and the voice of a singer in real
sorrow may move the listener somewhere deeper.
It is not certain if the music is an Inca
heritage, or a painful reaction to the Spanish arrival, played out with a brave face. The
Andean flute (queña) pipes out the weepy, almost screaming out in agony, high notes,
while the pan-pies (zamponas) bounce with a breathy beat.
No stringed instruments were played before the
arrival of the Spaniards, only wind and percussion. There were two types of drum that can
still be seen in the peñas, folklore dens, today. The wankar is the big side drum that
beats out the bass, and the little side drum is called the tinya. Small cymbals are also
used, while dried seed-pods are worn around the wrists and ankles.
As the charango is stringed, its idea must
have come with the Europeans. It is a cross between the mandolin and the bandurria. The
guitar is also used, as is a lighter, portable version of the harp.
The Brazilians may have hit the export market
with a raunchy song and dance routine called the Lambada, but the song was an Andean
original tiled Llorando se Fue, and written by The Kjarkas -- their cassettes are
excellent.
All in all, there's a wonderful treat for your
senses waiting to embrace you in Cuzco.
Colonial Cuzco,
© Travel Notes
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