Travel Notes: Destinations: Portugal - Faro Travel Guide.
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Serious budget airline travellers have long known a secret that Faro is more than cheap flight tickets to the popular Algarve beach resorts of southern Portugal. Share on Facebook
This charming capital of the Algarve deserves a proper look before you dash off to the beach with a hat on your head and a towel under your arm.
Don't Make a Massive Budget Traveller's Mistake
Most visitors barrel through Faro Airport without giving the city a second glance, treating it like travel's equivalent of a motorway service station. Big mistake.
While everyone else is queuing for coaches to Albufeira, you could be discovering cobbled squares, sampling proper Portuguese grub, and enjoying beaches without the crowds.
Faro might not shout about itself like its glitzier neighbours, but that's precisely what makes it special.
Faro strikes that perfect balance between authentic Portuguese culture and tourist-friendly amenities.
It's got enough history to keep culture vultures happy, brilliant seafood that won't break the bank, and easy access to some of the Algarve's most stunning natural areas.
Plus, accommodation costs a fraction of what you'd pay in Lagos or Tavira.
Faro serves as an excellent base for exploring the wider region, yet offers plenty to keep you occupied for several days.
Think of it as the Algarve's best-kept secret; though perhaps not for much longer.
The modern marina area buzzes with restaurants and bars, offering views across the Ria Formosa Natural Park.
It's where locals come to see and be seen, particularly during the evening *passear* (that lovely Portuguese tradition of the evening stroll).
The pedestrianised Rua Santo António and surrounding streets house the main shopping area, dotted with cafés perfect for people-watching over a bica (Portuguese espresso).
Faro's historic heart sits snugly within 13th-century walls, creating an intimate atmosphere that larger Portuguese cities can't match.
The Largo da Sé forms the centrepiece, dominated by the cathedral and surrounded by traditional Portuguese architecture that somehow avoided the tourist tat treatment.
This protected lagoon system stretches for 60 kilometres and ranks among Europe's most important wetland areas.
Take a boat trip from Faro Marina to spot flamingos, spoonbills, and other exotic birds.
The Ilha Deserta (Desert Island) offers pristine beaches and a single restaurant; blissfully uncommercialised.
Getting there: Regular boat services run from the marina (€15-25 return). Book ahead during summer months.
Start your Faro adventure within the old town walls.
The Faro Cathedral might not be Portugal's most impressive, but climb the bell tower for cracking views over the terracotta rooftops and lagoon beyond.
The Municipal Museum occupies a former convent and showcases fascinating Roman mosaics discovered locally.
Top tip: Visit early morning or late afternoon when the golden stone walls photograph beautifully and temperatures are more comfortable.
The waterfront promenade connects the old town with the modern marina development.
Stop for sundowners at one of the floating bars, or simply enjoy watching the boats while planning your next day's island-hopping adventure.
The Mercado Municipal showcases the Algarve's incredible produce.
Sample local cheeses, pick up bottles of medronho (firewater made from strawberry tree berries), and chat with vendors who've been trading here for decades.
The fish section is particularly impressive; and fragrant.
Saturday mornings are liveliest, but any weekday morning offers a more relaxed experience.
Pastelaria Gardy (R. de Santo Antonio 33) has been serving Faro's best 'pastéis de nata' since 1962.
Unlike the touristy versions elsewhere, these retain the proper custard-to-pastry ratio that makes Portuguese tarts special.
The covered market transforms into an informal food court during lunch hours, where vendors serve proper Portuguese comfort food.
Try the bifana (pork sandwich) from the corner stall. It's become legendary among budget-conscious travellers.
Restaurante Fim do Mundo (Rua Dr. Manuel Teixeira Gomes 28) serves outstanding seafood in a no-frills setting beloved by locals.
Their cataplana (traditional copper pot stew) feeds two people generously and costs less than a main course in most UK restaurants.
Vila Adentro (Praça Dom Afonso III 17) occupies a beautiful townhouse in the old quarter, offering refined Portuguese cuisine without the stuffiness.
Their tasting menu showcases Algarve ingredients with modern presentation.
Twenty minutes by train brings you to Olhão, famous for its North African-influenced architecture and incredible Saturday market.
The seafood here is even cheaper than Faro's, and the atmosphere delightfully authentic.
Head west (about 90 minutes by car) to reach Sagres, where dramatic cliffs meet the Atlantic.
The fortress perches on Europe's south-western tip, offering spectacular sunset views and a genuine sense of being at the continent's edge.
This elegant town, 30 minutes eastward, boasts 37 churches and some of the Algarve's most photogenic corners.
The Roman bridge and castle ruins provide cultural interest, while Ilha de Tavira offers excellent beaches.
April to June and September to October offer ideal weather without summer's crowds.
July and August bring intense heat and higher prices, though the evening atmosphere becomes more vibrant.
Faro's compact centre is easily walkable, with most attractions within 15 minutes of each other.
The local bus system connects outer areas, while taxis remain affordable for short journeys.
Faro - Gago Coutinho International Airport (FAO) is located 4km west of Faro.
Bus route 14 and 16 run regularly (€2.35), while taxis cost around €15-20.
Portugal uses the Euro.
ATMs are plentiful throughout the city centre.
Cards are widely accepted, though smaller establishments prefer cash.
€50-70 per day covers accommodation, meals, and activities comfortably.
Fine dining and boat trips will increase costs.
Pousada Palácio de Estói (15 minutes outside Faro) occupies a converted palace with stunning gardens. Luxury without Lisbon prices.
Hotel Faro overlooks the marina and provides modern comfort in the heart of town.
Stay Hotel Faro Centro offers excellent value for money with contemporary rooms and central location.
The Chapel of Bones at Igreja do Carmo provides a macabre but fascinating glimpse into Portuguese religious traditions.
The Jewish Heritage Centre tells the lesser-known story of Faro's Sephardic community.
Portuguese people appreciate attempts to speak their language, even basic phrases.
Meal times run later than in Northern Europe; lunch around 1-2pm, dinner after 7pm.
Comfortable walking shoes are essential for cobbled streets.
Sun protection is crucial year-round, and layers work best for variable spring and autumn weather.
Faro proves that sometimes the journey's starting point deserves to be the destination itself.
While others rush towards the Algarve's obvious attractions, you'll discover a city that maintains its Portuguese soul while embracing visitors warmly.
It's authentic without being backwards, cultured without being pretentious, and affordable without compromising quality.
Whether you're seeking a base for exploring the wider Algarve or simply want to experience Portugal away from the tourist hordes, Faro delivers exactly what many travellers didn't know they were looking for.
Just don't tell everyone about it; some secrets are worth keeping.
The city works brilliantly as either a destination in its own right or as part of a wider Portuguese adventure.
Most visitors find two to three days perfect for experiencing the highlights while maintaining that relaxed Algarve pace of life.
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